Tapers

The condition you describe, commonly known as "blisters", has two possible causes. First, when loading your taper with the loading pump and gooseneck, ensure that the bucket of joint compound has a sufficient amount of material for the loading pump to fill the taper and that you've properly primed the pump. Insufficient compound or improper priming can result in pockets of air in the compound that fills the automatic taper. While these air pockets won't damge the taper or effect its operation, it will leave sections of tape that have no joint compound behind them. Be sure to maintain enough joint compound in the bucket to keep the bottom of the pump covered and prime the pump to force out any air to avoid this problem. (Watch video) Another possible cause could be that you're not maintaining constant contact of the Taper drive wheels on the wallboard surface. Constant contact of the drive wheels to the wallboard is necessary to maintain a steady flow of joint compound onto the tape. (Watch video)
Something is likely keeping the valve open (dried compound, sediment, dirt).  Try cleaning the valve thoroughly with pressured water and a brush. Inspect closely to see if there is anything in there and apply Bazooka Oil.  This should resolve the problem.
FibaFuse will go through the taper.  Fiberglass mesh tapes will NOT go through the taper.
The 7" knife works best for wiping tape that is applied with the automatic taper.  Use the optional extension handle (sold separately) when wiping ceiling joints which avoids the need for stilts or scaffolding.
No, the ATX01TT Taper Extension will not attach to the 03TT Mini-Taper. The extension is designed for the 07TT. The ATX01TT Extension attaches to the control tube of the 07TT and requires the length/distance that the 07TT tube provides. The distance from the bottom of the taper to the control tube of the 03TT Taper is insufficient for the ATX01TT to attach.
The TapeTech Automatic Tapers (07TT, 04TT and 05TT) and the T05CF Bazooka Continuous Flow Taper both accept 250’ and 500’ (76.2 m and 152.4 m) paper and fiber tape rolls that measure 2 1/16” to 2 1/8” (52.39 mm to 53.96 mm) wide. Fiberglass screen or mesh adhesive tape will not work in the Automatic Tapers or the Bazooka Continuous Flow Tapers.
The Gooser Needle (the small needle that advances the tape) is attached to a white plastic tube called the Gooser Guide( part #054111F). If the Gooser Guide is getting stuck at the top of the Tape Guide, this area probably needs to be lubricated. Make sure to keep this area clean and free of dried joint compound and use Ames Bazooka Oil to keep the moving parts lubricated. Smooth operation of the Gooser Guide piece will ensure easy cutting and advancement of the tape. View the Schematic Drawings for the Automatic Tapers
The jamming of the tape is most likely caused by some type of obstruction within the tape guide itself or at the pyramid blade area. Keep the tape guide area clean with water and a brush and be sure to lubricate with Ames Bazooka Oil. If there is a tape jam at the pyramid blade, simply release the blade spring (#050132F) and pull the blade and chain through the taper head. Then use a piece of thin metal band or strap to clean or remove any obstruction that is located in the tape guide or pyramid blade area of the taper head. Pull the blade chain back through the taper head and reattach the spring using the Key Ring (#059067). View the Schematic Drawings for the Automatic Tapers
While everyone has their own preference in the order that they tape a room, most automatic tool users will tape all the drywall butt joints (where two non-tapered edges of drywall meet) on the walls and ceilings first as they move around the job. These butt joints are wiped down with a taping knife and pan to press the tape into the joint compound and remove the excess mud. After the butt joints are taped and wiped down, all the flat joints (where two tapered edges of drywall meet) on the walls and ceilings are taped. Like the butt joints, the flat joints are wiped down with a taping knife and pan to press the tape into the joint compound and remove the excess mud. The final step is to tape the internal corners with the Automatic Taper, immediately followed by using the Corner Roller and Corner Finisher to produce a machine finished corner that is already embedded on both sides.
The TapeTech Automatic Tapers (07TT, 04TT and 05TT) can simultaneously apply 78’ (24 meters) of drywall joint tape and joint compound to flat, butt or internal corner joints before needing to be refilled.
Absolutely. The Bazooka Continuous Flow Bazooka Taper T05CF weighs just 7 pounds, including a 250’ roll of tape! Compare this to a standard automatic taper that weighs approximately 18 pounds when fully loaded with joint compound and tape. The key difference is that the Continuous Flow Taper does not need to hold a reserve of joint compound; the joint compound flows continuously through the taper handle and onto the wall as you work. The taper handle is also smaller in diameter and more comfortable to operate for longer periods of time. Comfort, lower weight and no need to stop and refill constantly – continuous flow is a great solution for high production drywall finishing!
If the needle (part #059049, often referred to as the gooser needle) that advances the drywall joint tape is ripping the tape when you use your TapeTech automatic taper, it is usually a sign that the taper needs cleaning or routine maintenance. First, check the needle; if it is worn it may need to be replaced. Make sure the needle is properly set in the needle holder (050050F) and adjust, if necessary. Check to see that the drywall joint tape moves smoothly through the tape guide assembly (054101) and clean the assembly, if needed. For your convenience, TapeTech offers Maintenance Kit 200 which includes the gooser needle and nine others parts already combined into one, easy sub-assembly.
When taping ceilings with the TapeTech Automatic Taper, use both drive wheels for the first 4” to 6” (101mm to 127mm) then engage the creaser wheel to secure the tape and tilt the bottom of the automatic taper at a slight angle, leaving only one drive wheel in contact with the drywall surface. Move the Taper (07TT, 04TT or 05TT) along the drywall joint with the taper head leading the way as you tape the ceiling joints. This method ensures the proper amount of joint compound is applied to the joint and that the tape adheres to it until you wipe it down with the taping knife.
There are many commercially available lubricant products on the market. Most are designed for specific uses. Our experience is that many lubricants can cause some of the rubber parts used in ATF tools to swell, making the tools operate less effectively. We recommend using Ames Bazooka Oil when lubricating your TapeTech Automatic Taping and Finishing Tools.
The condition you describe, commonly known as "blisters", has two possible causes. First, when loading your taper with the loading pump and gooseneck, ensure that the bucket of joint compound has a sufficient amount of material for the loading pump to fill the taper and that you've properly primed the pump. Insufficient compound or improper priming can result in pockets of air in the compound that fills the automatic taper. While these air pockets won't damge the taper or effect its operation, it will leave sections of tape that have no joint compound behind them. Be sure to maintain enough joint compound in the bucket to keep the bottom of the pump covered and prime the pump to force out any air to avoid this problem. (Watch video) Another possible cause could be that you're not maintaining constant contact of the Taper drive wheels on the wallboard surface. Constant contact of the drive wheels to the wallboard is necessary to maintain a steady flow of joint compound onto the tape. (Watch video)...
This usually happens if you cut the tape when you are still running the taper. This is because you are naturally running the taper at a slight angle to wall. Be sure to stop running the taper before pulling back on the control tube to cut the tape. When you stop running the taper, your natural motion usually makes the taper more square to the wall, resulting in a better cut.
Please refer to the Operations Guide for the 07TT TapeTech automatic taper.